Copyright 1996 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
You've hit on one of the subjects of great debate among wine lovers, especially in the U.S., when you ask whether Zinfandel improves with age.This is not a question with a simple yes or no answer, frankly. Here's why: When it's young, a good Zinfandel is one of the most delightfully, exuberantly fruity wines known. To me, and to a lot of other people, it's this quality that makes Zin special; and frankly, it's definitely related to freshness; as a Zin ages, this happy character fades away.
Now, on the other hand, some of the very best Zins -- the single-vineyard bottlings from Ridge and Ravenswood come to mind -- do take on a delicacy and complexity with age in the bottle that isn't present in their youth. They become more "claret-like," this is, more reminiscent of an older Cabernet or Bordeaux, to the extent that an older Zin that's been cellared well may become almost indistinguishable from an older Cab.
This is not a bad thing! But, as I said, it's a different thing. In my opinion, I'd rather enjoy my Zin for what it does best, and drink it young. But I certainly wouldn't say that anyone is foolish for choosing to cellar some away for the benefits of what it becomes with age.
If you do prefer Zin in the young, fruity style, though, it's generally best to drink it soon after release, and certainly within a year or two. Currently (summer 1996), the 1994s are in release (and it is an outstanding, blockbuster vintage for Zins all over California).
Generally speaking, I find that Zinfandels from Sonoma are most likely to ring my chimes, with a bow also in the direction of Amador County and the Sierra Foothills.
Some of the big names in Zin -- and justly so -- include Ridge and Ravenswood. Other personal favorites include Swan, Quivira, Rabbit Ridge, Rosenblum and Cline, the last three in particular being widely distributed in the U.S. and generally very fair in price.
You might also want to take another look at my recent California Diary posting, which includes a boatload of tasting notes from my May 1996 California trip, including quite a few Zins.
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