American and General Cookery
James Beard's American Cookery, by James Beard.
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Hardcover, 896 pages.
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James Beard, along with Julia Child, can fairly be described as a leader of
the renaissance of advanced, serious amateur cooking in the U.S. that came
about after World War II. This volume contains his presentations of all the
best in American cuisine from Maine to Hawaii.
New! Joy of Cooking: The All-Purpose Cookbook, by Marion Rombauer Becker and Irma
E. Rombauer. Paperback. List: $14.95 -- Amazon.com Price: $11.96 -- You Save: $2.99 (20%)
This is the widely publicized, all-new 1997 revision of Marion and Irma Rombauer's classic, with much new information and a more modern approach, catching up with the end of the Twentieth Century while retaining a lot of the cozy feeling that makes Joy the cookbook equivalent of "comfort food." As with its predecessor (below), it's a far cry from "gor-may," but when it comes to the basics and finding quick, straightforward answers to your cookery questions, it's hard to beat.
Joy of Cooking, by Marion Rombauer Becker and Irma
E. Rombauer.
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When we become serious about cooking, we tend to grow away from Joy
of Cooking as the too-simple guide that our mothers used to create the
food of the Fifties. But you know what? It's still an excellent basic guide
when you want to turn back and look up a particular technique.
The New York Times Cook Book, by Craig Claiborne. Hardcover, 799 pages.
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I laughingly call this book, and its sequel below, "The Upper East Side
Joy of Cooking, but they remain two of the most well-thumbed books in
my personal cookbook collection.
Craig Claiborne's The New New York Times Cookbook, by Craig
Claiborne and Pierre Franey. Hardcover, 751 pages. List: $15.99 --
Amazon.com Price: $15.99
More of the same, only different, here we have Craig and Pierre knocking out
one dish after another again, every recipe reliable and most of them easy
enough to be quick yet challenging enough not to be boring.
Enola Prudhomme's Low-Calorie Cajun Cooking, by Enola Prudhomme.
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Paul Prudhomme's sister Enola runs a wonderful Cajun family restaurant on
the outskirts of Lafayette, La. It's not clear whether he taught her to
cook or she taught him, but they both make wonderful food and write about it
in clear, direct detail that will pass their secrets along to you.
Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen, by Paul Prudhomme. Hardcover, 351
pages. List: $23 -- Amazon.com Price: $20.70 -- You Save: $2.30 (10%)
"Sophisticated" food-lovers tend to look down on Chef Paul's K-Paul's
Louisiana Kitchen, partly because it's so famous and partly because it's
so self-consciously downscale, with long lines waiting for dinner and a
regimental seating procedure in which you share tables with strangers whether
you want to or not. Never mind. The man is an incredible cook, and it shows in
his restaurant's fare. His book spells out the details, with startling rations
of butter and fat, so you can make an etouffée as good as his. Try it,
you'll see.
Asian Cookbooks
The China Moon Cookbook, by Barbara Tropp.
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Not true Chinese but "fusion," Barbara Tropp's little China Moon restaurant
in San Francisco has always been a sentimental favorite for me because she
likes, as I do, to "fuse" concepts from different cuisines to create new
originals. You'll find a lot of them in this thick cookbook.
Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine: The Fabulous Flavors & Innovative Recipes of North America's Finest Chinese Cook, by Susanna Foo. Hardcover, 352 pages.
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New in my collection, Ms. Foo's book hasn't quite found its place in my
regular "rotation" yet, but I believe it will. Though it appears to be a
bit of a "coffee table" cookbook with its large format, glossy photos and
sizable price, but wrapped around the photos you'll find some awfully good
recipes.
The Key to Chinese Cooking, by Irene Kuo. Hardcover, 532 pages.
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A long-time favorite, this solid, thorough book offers a good starting point
for a Westerner eager to learn Chinese cookery, and it's not a bad reference
book for experienced cooks as well.
The Original Thai Cookbook, by Jennifer Brennan. Paperback., 318 pages.
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Small in format but efficiently organized, Brennan's book is about as good
a basic, inexpensive reference to Thai cuisine as you'll find, with quick,
useful descriptions of ingredients, techniques and service.
The Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook, by Gloria Bley Miller. Paperback,
926 pages. List: $20 -- Amazon.com Price: $18 -- You Save: $2 (10%)
Recipes, recipes, recipes: You want 'em, this thick volume has 'em. Owning
this book is a little bit like living in a Chinese restaurant with a gigantic
menu ... let's see, what shall we have tonight ...
Fish Cookery
James Beard's New Fish Cookery, by James Beard. Paperback. List: $16.95 --
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As with most of Beard's books, this one is magisterial, with all the basics
and a step or two beyond, organized in a useful format with recipes for all
the basic species of fish and shellfish placed together, then subdivided by
cooking technique.
French Cookbooks
The Cuisine of the Sun: Classical French Cooking from Nice and Provence,
by Mireille Johnston. Hardcover. List: $9.98-- Amazon.com Price: $9.98 + $0.85 special surcharge.
This book, and the sadly out-of-print Cuisine of the Rose featuring
Burgundian cookery, is among my very favorite cookbooks. The recipes are
generally not for the beginner, or for the dieter; they're relatively
complicated, but unerringly reliable, and they produce delicious results.
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Healthy and Low-Calorie Cookery
Pierre Franey's Low-Calorie Gourmet, by Pierre Franey. Paperback.
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Franey's doctor told him to lose weight, so he came up with scores of new
recipes for low-calorie renditions of his mid-Atlantic Franco-American dishes.
Now he shares them with us. Not my favorite of his books, frankly, but if
you want to count calories and continue to enjoy creative cuisine,
this book's as good a starting point as I know of.
Indian Cookbooks
Classic Indian Cooking, by Julie Sahni. Hardcover, 541 pages. List: $25 -- Amazon.com Price: $22.50 -- You Save: $2.50 (10%)
Another of my favorite cookbooks, this one (like Marcella Hazan's Italian
cookbooks) is aimed at exactly the level I enjoy: The recipes are difficult
enough to be challenging, without being so complicated that they keep you in
the kitchen all afternoon; they're apparently authentic, and they're told in
a chatty style that teaches you a thing or two and makes you feel that you
know the author personally.
Classic Indian Vegetarian and Grain Cooking, by Julie Sahni. Hardcover, 511 pages. List: $25 -- Amazon.com Price: $22.50 -- You Save: $2.50 (10%)
As above, this one is a sequel from Sahni that's just about as enjoyable as
the original. If you live in the provinces, though, be aware: Some of the
recipes may call for exotic ingredients that are hard to find outside Indian
markets in major cities.
An Invitation to Indian Cooking, by Madhur Jaffrey. Paperback., 285 pages
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An excellent introduction to Indian cookery, this one from Jaffrey offers
a good selection of authentic dishes that may be a little easier and quicker
to put together than most of Sahni's. That's good news if you want curry in
a hurry.
Italian Cookbooks
Cucina Fresca, by Viana La Place and Evan Kleiman. List: $16 -- Amazon.com Price: $14.40 -- You Save: $1.60 (10%)
Save this one for summer cooking: Focusing on the fresh delights of the
Italian garden, it contains entirely cold dishes. Most of them won't
keep the cook out of the kitchen, but they definitely reduce the heat in the
dining room.
Marcella's Italian Kitchen, by Marcella Hazan. Paperback. List: $19.95 --
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If I could take only one cookbook to a desert island -- a decision that I
would hate to have to make -- this would be the one. Any close reader of
my World of Creative
Cookery will know that I make more dishes out of, or inspired by, Hazan's
books than any other. If you like the recipes I post on the Web, I think
you'll like hers. 'nuff said.
The Regional Italian Kitchen, by Nika Hazelton: Honi Werner, Illustrator).
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The Italian cookbook I generally grab when I'm not using Marcella's is this
excellent edition. You may learn a little less about life and living in Italy
from this one, but for straightforward, authentic and easy-to-prepare Italian
dishes from the Piemonte to the toe of the boot and on to Sicily, this one's
hard to beat.
Mexican Cookbooks
Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico, by Deann Groen Bayless, John Sandford, Rick Bayless. Hardcover, 384 pages. List: $27.50 -- Amazon.com Price: $24.75 -- You Save: $2.75 (10%)
I love Rick and Deann Bayless's Frontera Grill and Topolobampo restaurants in
Chicago, and I love their approach to ethnic fare: First, learn everything
there is to learn about a particular cuisine; then, and only then, give it
your personal spin. The book, like the brother-and-sister restaurants, is
fine.
Quick Cookery
20-Minute Menus, by Marian Burros. Paperback. List: $12 -- Amazon.com Price: $10.80 -- You Save: $1.20 (10%)
She's not kidding. Interesting, creative meals -- an entree and a vegetable,
most often -- that any reasonably competent cook can have on the table in
20 minutes. Here's the proof of the pudding: When my wife (who's an excellent
cook but doesn't like cooking) takes a rare turn in the kitchen, this
is the book she usually uses.
Cuisine Rapide, by Bryan Miller and Pierre Franey. Hardcover, 372 pages.
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I bought this book out of admiration for the authors, Franey of "60 Minute
Gourmet" fame and Miller, who was the best restaurant critic The New
York Times has had in recent memory. The book's OK, too, with serious
yet quick dishes that put innovative spins on (mostly) American and
continental fare.
The New York Times More 60-Minute Gourmet, by Pierre Franey. Paperback.
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Although I've somewhat moved on beyond this book (and its out-of-print
predecessor, "The 60-Minute Gourmet," because the recipes are generally
more traditional New York City French than innovative, I'll always have
good memories of it, because it was through relentlessly following and
learning Franey's techniques that I refined my own ability to put almost any
meal on the table in an hour or less. Here's to the memory of this happy
fellow who died in 1996.
Soup and Bread Cookbooks
Beard on Bread, by James Beard. Paperback, 228 pages. List: $15 --
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Lighterweight than most of Beard's books, this slim volume still includes
scores of good bread recipes and a basic approach to bread-making techniques
that will serve any new baker well.
The Complete Book of Soups and Stews, by Bernard Clayton. Paperback. List:
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Clayton's practically a neighbor, based in Bloomington, Ind., just up the
road a piece from my home town in Louisville, and he and I used to have
regular columns appearing on the same day in Louisville's
Courier-Journal. That's not why I like his books, though. It's simply
that they're good. We've made many a hearty winter soup out of this
volume, and some cooling summer soups too.
Bernard Clayton's New Complete Book of Breads.
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Hardcover, 748 pages. List: $30 -- Amazon.com Price: $27 -- You Save: $3 (10%)
As thick and full of recipes as Beard's bread book (above) is light, this
is the bread-making book that you should have if you're having only
one. Hundreds of recipes range from simple to extremely complicated, but
all share a keen eye for organization and detail that breaks the process
down into step-by-step procedures that any intelligent cook should be able
to follow.
The Village Baker: Classic Regional Breads from Europe and America,
by Joe Ortiz. Paperback, 320 pages. List: $19.95 -- Amazon.com Price: $17.96
-- You Save: $1.99 (10%)
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Luckily, I got the hardcover edition of this book (which is apparently no
longer in print) a couple of years ago, and it has flour and water stains
all over it from frequent use. These are not, by and large, simple quick
breads but faithful re-creations of peasant and country breads from all over
the Western world, many requiring starters or sourdough. Not for the beginner,
but if you're serious about bread, you'll love it.
Twelve Months of Monastery Soups, by Victor-Antoine D'Avila-Latourrette.
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Availability: On Order; usually shipped within 1-2 weeks.
I got my copy from Quality Paperback, but Amazon is selling it for less. An
odd concept ... I think of monasteries as places where penitents subsist on
very basic fare. These soups, however, while largely simple and primarily
vegetarian, are far more than that. We've enjoyed a dozen soups out of it
already, including Lima Bean Soup and, very
loosely translated, Brussels Sprout Soup, and
haven't yet hit one we didn't like.
Vegetable Cookbooks
American Wholefoods Cuisine, by Nikki and David Goldbeck. Paperback.
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If The New York Times Cookbook is the "Upper East Side Joy of Cooking,"
then this one is the "Vegetarian's Joy of Cooking." It's so flatteringly
similar to "Joy" that it's even got a similar page layout and illustrations;
but the recipes are all meatless (although issues of meat and fish storage are
addressed in the appendix).
Greene on Greens, by Bert Greene. Paperback., 432 pages. List: $16.95 --
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Got a vegetable? Don't know what to do with it? Bert Greene will tell you
in this attractive, useful cookbook that's divided into chapters covering
just about every member of the vegetable kingdom in alphabetical order. For
such healthful fare, a surprising number of the recipes are heavy on oils,
butter and cheese, but hey ...
Madhur Jaffrey's World-Of-The-East Vegetarian Cookbook, by Madhur Jaffrey.
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Another of my favorite cookbooks, this large volume spans all of Asia, from
India through China to Japan and Southeast Asia, offering hundreds of
delicious vegetarian recipes the way the peoples of the East enjoy them. I'd
call it indispensible even if, like me, you're not a vegetarian.
World Cookbooks
Extending the Table: A World Community Cookbook, by Kristina Mast Burnett (Editor) and Joetta H. Schlabach. Spiral Edition, hardcover, 332 pages.
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A lovely little cookbook written from the heart by folks who really care
about eating well while treading lightly on the Earth, and learning some
things from non-Western cultures in the process. Recipes, mostly contributed
by Americans of all sorts of ethnic backgrounds, are generally tasty and
easy to prepare; some contain meat, while many are vegetarian. For a sample,
see my modification of its Marak - Somali Camel
Stew. (Relax. It's made with beef.)